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2月26日

Hoi An and lots of clothes

Hello all
 
Me and Mark are currently in the lovely town of Hoi An which I think has very similar name in Han oi but this could be just my decent into madness. Its really nice here, lovely weather but unfortnately bugs like this type of weather too so there is a ... of them (though Mark informs me that big spiders want to eat things that bite you so its all good).
 
Hoi An is a like a world heritage think but really badly sign posted so you can't really find much but its main draw is clothes, made to measure clothes. There was always talk of Vietnam being the place to have clothes made and yes it is as they can pretty much make anything you want - yes at last i have combats which can show my entire crap tattoo to the world (and maybe give it some sun so it will fade away but it has taken a whole 8 weeks to tan my feet). I've gone a bit mad on the clothes but we are well within budget at the moment (if I could stop yearning for diet pepsi i'd have even more money) so I went mad with shoes as well - yes they made them here too.
 
As a "day trip" which is in fact 8am to 1pm we went to My Son, and I hereby christen My Son -  Vietnam's Amber Fort - thats right it costs a lot to get there but its pretty boring (nan rule) and we should have waited until Ankor Watt because looking at temple. I'll give My Son some slack seeing the US bombed the hell out of it but rebuiding it for tourists - well thats just a bit naughty, and Mark pointed out I could similar things at Hornchurch Airfield - I however don't know if the whether would be so tropical and whether or not there would be any snakes - unless there are some adders.
 
Sorry if there are any mistakes this entry the keyboard and mouse here are pretty rubbish. Also thanks to James for the coolest birthday card ever. About my birthday - it didn't seem like a birthday but we did go out on a crap river boat cruise of the perfume river which was full of ants and took us to sites well we couldn't afford to go in, Mark loved it but I like to see the bad in everything. However, we went out in the evening and I finally beat Mark at pool - yes I BEAT MARK AT POOL and drank a lot and we ate a lot too - so much we got a doggy bag. For anyone going to Hue - please look out for my message in the DMZ Cafe just inside the door on the ceiling - it will tell you where Upminster is :-)
 
Lots of love
 
Vicki
(writing depressing comments as always)

2月23日

A continuation...

Ok, so I am finally ready to bring you all nearly up to date.
 
The DMZ
 
As I said last time, we set off on the back of our scooters to begin visiting the sites along Highway 1. For those of you who may come to Vietnam and do likewise, I must say that in retrospect we wish we had actually visited the other sites around Highway 9 as, upon reaching Hue, we discovered that all the bus tours departing from here visit most of the places we saw on motorbike, but those on Highway 9 do not have such a direct service (and are instead added on to the tours which also go to Highway 1).
 
Anyway, we still enjoyed the day, and were well accompanied by our guide and a driver, with the former actually a South-Vietnamese veteran who, along with his friend who owned the cafe where we booked the tour, were sent to re-education camps for 5 years at the end of the war. The actual sites of the war themselves were not on the whole greatly interesting for us with our limited war knowledge, with the Americans destroying almost all of their bases from the air upon leaving the country and the VC tactics not conducive to making visitable sites. Instead, we were more interested in those established after the war, including the national cemetary containing the bodies of around 15,000 North Vietnamese soldiers killed in the war.
 
We also were taken to the Vin Moc tunnels (though we were a little irritated that we had to pay the entrance fee after being told all were included in our price), where much of a village moved in order to escape the constant bombardment. Despite quite obviously being enlarged for the larger tourists, they gave an interesting insight into tunnel-living, particularly as they included the relatively common (they were also in the prison we visited in Hanoi) scary doll-figures that bring the rooms "to life", including one set demonstrating how the maternity room (though it was more just an expanded part of the corridor) would have been used.
 
When we returned to the cafe, we decided that we would go straight on to Hue as it offered better entertainment than Dong Ha, even though we had only arrived on the overnight train from Hanoi that morning. After telling our plan, we were quickly bundled into the back of a minibus in our quite tired state, which meant that we did not have time to reclaim the entrance fee for the caves or the money Victoria lent her driver to buy petrol, though the irritation at being so smoothly passed on eventually passed during the very cramped drive to Hue.
 
Hue
 
Upon our arrival we set off, pursued by cyclo-rickshaws, in search of a place to rest after our busy 24 hours since we had left Hanoi. Though it was disappointing discovering our room's TV only had Vietnamese stations, Van Xuan guesthouse has probably been my favourite place we have stayed, primarily for the old, and incredibly friendly, Vietnamese couple who run it and can barely speak a single workd of English between them, with these two characteristics making even a simple request for laundry brilliantly entertaining.
 
Site-wise, Hue itself is pretty unmemorable and this fact perhaps helped lead to the latest extravaganza on our photobucket - our "Where's Vicki" section (as if I need to explain), which we will try to include as often as possible to make some photos more interesting where the sites aren't themselves (as was the case on our cyclo-tour around the city).
 
That said, we have found it pleasant, particularly with it having a couple of nice bars which provide free (as opposed to having to pay around 2 quid) pool on nice (as opposed to beer-stained) tables.
 
Well, now I've come so close to bringing you up-to-date, I'm going to go and retire in the **** hotel (four star, rather than some expletive that I have removed) we are currently staying for Victoria's birthday (which she will write about soon), and make you wait expectantly for further updates.
 
Mark
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
2月20日

And now from somewhere quite different

Ok, first I apologize for the massive delay since my last post, though I trust that Victoria has kept you all sufficiently entertained since we left for Vietnam via Singapore. However, I now have enough uninterrupted time to update you on what we have been doing, even though it will be covering old ground.

Leaving India

I didn't really have enough time to go into any detail for Mumbai last time, though as it was now quite a long time ago all I will add is that though the sites were not great, we thoroughly enjoyed staying in the city and walking around the (thankfully paved) streets, particularly around Colaba. The only slight problem (excluding our accomodation of course) came when we tried to send our first batch of souveniers home, which led to me pleading with customs officials to rip up some of their records so we could combine our packages, which they fortunately agreed to.

Vietnam

After a stop in Singapore airport (which is well nice), our actual arrival in Hanoi was delayed by the least efficient passport control worker ever (though at least he didn't cover my passport in red ink, as happened on leaving India). Fortunately, the driver picking us up did not give up on waiting, and took us to the hotel we were staying as part of our Halong Bay trip, which had a Premiership-obsessed staff.

The first thing we noticed is that the weather is actually pretty bad here, though I appreciate it as it has actually made going out and sight-seeing far easier for us used to British weather.

Halong Bay

With barely enough time to catch up on our sleep (though enough for Victoria to go patch-mad on her bag), we set off to collect our junk-boat to cruise around Halong Bay. En route we were even treated to a live pig-slaughtering by the side of the road, with the noises making Victoria and the two Australian girls accompanying us feel quite squeemish (though it would not put them off their pork spring rolls for lunch)

Despite the pretty grim weather and limited visibility, the trip was actually really enjoyable, and included kayaking in the bay and visiting a few caves. I even managed to brave the water to use the Indian-purchased snorkel I had bought specially for the trip and was therefore determined to try, even though it was apparently so cold I was the only one not wearing a jumper, let alone in the sea. For the first time, I could legitimately consider other people (except Victoria the Midlander of course) soft southerners.

Hanoi

We returned to shore after one night on the boat, and had to move to different (i.e. cheaper) accomodation to that included in the tour, and found a nice place with over-friendly female staff, one of whom took quite a liking to Victoria and her lovely pale skin.

Our time in Hanoi was divided between looking at the shops selling a wide variety of fakes and pirates (as well as the more arty places) and visiting the many museums focusing on the war against France, and the lesser-known conflict with America (who knew?). By far the most entertaining was the Army museum, which substituted the minature paintings and decorative items in the Indian places for tanks and other weaponry, sculptures made out of shot-down American planes and LED covered battle-field diagrams. Victoria was so caught-up that she even continued her practice of saluting in pictures (which I might have thought would be a little risky given the setting).

We also found time to pay a visit to Uncle Ho and check out his old place, though the walk to the former led to the only thing approaching trouble we have experienced so far - when some guy trying to sell us more LPs took mine out of the side-pouch of my bag, and I then snatched it back, 2 Vietnamese officers appeared out of nowhere and one of them lost their shoe in the process of trying to kick them. Now, though I obviosuly abhor any excesses by state agents, the whole incident was thoroughly entertaining and, in some sense, a little reasuring (at least insofar as the speed of action from officials.

A Day-trip to the Perfume Pagoda

Just to show we have learnt nothing from our previous experiences of both temples and LP-recommended day-trip sites, we decided to visit, via coach and a boat that looked barely capable of keeping afloat whilst empty, let alone with 16 tourists stuffed in, the Perfume Pagoda.

To be honest, with the site itself a little confusing and covered in orange peel, which we spent 1 and a 1/2 hours walking to during the hottest day in Vietnam we have so far experienced (we decided to get the cable-car back), which at least meant the locals were entertained by the ridiculous amount of sweat running from my forehead. This was complemented by a tour-guide who was quite adept at losing the entire group and hiding himself under his jacket, and a boat-woman who was convinced Victoria was upsetting the balance of the boat, even when she was sitting in the middle, despite other members of the tour weighing at least 4 million times more than her.

Leaving for the DMZ

Eventually we had to leave Hanoi, and the awesome supermarket that kept us in beer and food. The actual process of leaving was made quite exciting because of the problems I had with getting my suit tailored (obviously Vietnamese men prefer a different style to what I am familiar with, though I ended up looking like I was wearing my Dad's suit), which led to a frantic dash to the train station (though we still made it with 30 minutes to spare).

Our Tour of Duty

Naturally, despite our limited combined knowledge of the Vietnam war (gathered primarily from Hollywood movies and Vietnamese museums - which should have provided quite a balanced view), we arrived in Dong Ha to begin visiting war sites on the back of a scooter (which, because neither of us had been on one before, added to the enjoyment).

However, before I go on any further I am going to get some food, so I'll finish this later.

Mark

2月19日

Round the DMZ on motorbike

Hello all,
 
Mark and I are currently in Hue which isn't pronounced how you think it would be, its abit of a Bodo  - as it you don't get it and someone has to point out how wrong you are. Hue is in the middle of Vietnam - in fact its about 60 kms around from the dividing line between what was North and South Vietnam.
 
I can't say I learnt much about the Vietnam war - we touched on it but at GCSE you touch on a lot and then dump it from your brain after exams are over. Anyway being in Vietnam it seems apt that you should visit some of the war sites and we decided to go ahead and do this (this may have something to do with the fact I really hate pagodas and temples because they are boring and a bit like churches- as it all a variation on the same theme - plus we went to the Perfume Pagoda and it sucked and the woman who rowed out boat kept hitting me on purpose and then had the cheek to ask for money). We decided to take a tour from Dong Ha  I don't recommend this as you can get much longer and cheaper trips on a bus from Hue. However, if you want to go on a motorbike which is much more fun it is better to go from Dong Ha. We only went around the sites on Highway 1 which is basically just the Vinh Moch tunnels which are very very tights and not for the faint hearted (in fact I think the guy on the tour with us didn't enjoy the tour at all and wanted to leave at every available exit - not suprising seeing some of the tunnels are some 23 metres underground).
 
Now for a word about the food. I am now vegetarian because after out trip to the perfume pagoda and the joy of seeing roasted dogs and other animals on hooks i don't really want to eat meat anymore. They are also fond on trotters and pig's noses and it just puts you off - its also safer being vegetarian I guess. I'm sure it won't last the whole trip though as I want to eat a kangaroo - though not a whole one because I think that would be far too much.I also can't get round eating noodles for breakfast. Whilst on our boat trip to Halong Bay everything I was offered to eat had eyes  - like crabs and shrimps and I refuse to do things with eyes, so i'm not going for seafood either.
 
Also to anyone who might blindly follow LP and think its not cool to take the tourist open bus - I can safely say if you go soft sleeper on a train here you aren't going to meet any locals - probably because they can't afford it.
 
Until next time - all the best.
 
Vicki
 
Also I would like to say sorry about India - as most people acknowlege its probably the most stressful place to travel and it got to me and I let it out on here, whcih was wrong but least I never let it out on the actual people there. I would like to say, now I can compare countries that Indian people on the whole were very friendly to being to the point of being in your face too much and were always willing to help. However, they do need to sort out some kind of refuse collection and some good sewage system, the government of India also needs to drive into people that sending your kids to school is really really important and it also needs to make drivers drive more safely because its such a waste that so many people get killed on the roads. I however, maintain that bugs coming into your room is the responsibility of the hotel you are staying in goddamnit!
2月10日

Good Morning Vietnam

India sucks simple.... now Vietnam on the other hand.....
 
We have now been in Hanoi for a few days now and can I just say, this places is great. I hate to say this and sorry if I offend anyone but the people here are much friendly, sure some people are going to want to rip you off but in general it just seems more relaxed and friendly, maybe the people aren't so impatient as they are in Indian. However, the traffic isn't much better but they don't use the horn as much which is always a blessing.
 
We have just come back from a junk cruise trip around Halong Bay - which means the descendants of dragons - none of the caves or "mountains" actually look like dragons though - though may of the other rocks are described as various animals - you just have squint to see it. The boat was lovely and at last we have a duvet - you don't know how great this is and to have hot water is also great - I haven't had a hot shower since Jaipur (though in Goa it didn't matter much because it was so bloody hot outside). However, the food was all seafood and much of it had eyes and  I can't eat things with eyes - I find crabs and prawns that look at me just distressing, especially after I saved a crab (or nicked him from a fisherman) in Goa.
 
The kids here look so cute and they don't tug at your arms - alas I think covert pictures would be out of order so none to show, however we may manage a picture of a 20 odd year old female taxi driver.
 
We have to wait here a while because we are waiting for the lovely swiss to send us a new filter after the last one died under mark's huge mass/very muscluar arms  so I will be able to write more about Hanoi later, and then again from Dong Ha which is the next place we go. We are going to the DMZ to see V war stuff and everyother backpacker seems to be skipping this and going to see temples (bloody temples!) so we may get to see some real vietnam with no horrible loud backpackers who go around boasting about where they have been and so on - ahhhhhhh
 
Lots of love
 
Vicki
2月7日

And now to Vietnam

Well, I think Victoria has done enough ranting for the both of us, so I will instead try to provide an update from where I last left off.
 
We are now only a few hours away from leaving for Vietnam, and are both looking forward to seeing a new place which will hopefully be a little less frustrating.
 
Goa
 
Having been reprimanded for "stealing" Victoria's title (even though I did not claim credit, I don't think I adequately referenced my source for her liking), I will try to avoid any plagiarism.
 
Though nothing really noteworthy happened, I forgot to mention that after talking to one of the other guests at our luxurious hotel, I have since insisted on using the term "Rupes" (or Roops) purely for the annoyance it causes Victoria, who has even started using the term accidentally herself (I am such a great travelling companion).
 
Also, everyone should head over to our photobucket to check Victoria after hald a 550ml bottle of Kingfisher, which led to her seeing dancing coconuts on the back of a menu (actual picture - a kebab). I should point out however that because thos can be blamed on the 1 unit of alcohol consumed, it should in no way cast doubt on her tiger siting in Ranthambore.
 
Travelling wise, the 30 hour train ride was fine, and we met a nice couple from Southampton, with Indian trains actually quite pleasant. The 14 hour coach ride to Pune was not quite so enjoyable, particularly as our sleeper was quite cramped (though not as bad as the back of the Indian equivalent of a Micra) and dropped us in some unknown location in the city.
 
Pune
 
The city itself was OK as it was less noisy and dirty than others in India, though it suffered from having fewer sites of interest to visit.
 
Our attempts to visit one of these actually caused me to finally lose my patience with India and refusing to pay the exhorbitant price to enter - and it is only appropriate that such peaceful non-cooperation occur at a site dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi.
 
Ok, I lied above, and I want to have a brief rant.
 
At virtually every place we have visited in India (except, incidentally, the Gandhi sites in Delhi amongst others), we are required to pay a fee at least 20 times the "Indian price". For a long period I was quite happy to pay extra to help preserve major sites (though 750Rs for the Taj Mahal really was taking it a little far), I have now started to agree with Victoria that it is just another example of quite shameless Indian profiteering, which leaves you with a bit of a feeling og being ripped off.
 
Even though I concede the actual entrance fees are relatively small (compared to UK prices - in the Gandhi case it was around 2 pounds), the fact of such grossly discriminatory prices finally became too much at a Gandhi memorial of all places - so I refused to pay and instead took pictures of the building in the grounds - really sticking it to the man (the owner of the museum that is, rather than Gandhi)
 
Otherwise, we just explored Pune, particularly the Old city, but looked forward to reaching Mumbai
 
Mumbai
 
Ok, first off our hotel has had its faults, including a ridiculous number of flying insects that shed their wings and get into your stuff, and also a mouse that came and ate some of my biscuits. However, it is the cheapest place we have stayed, and the staff, though not English-speaking, have been quite helpful (though irritating at times)
 
The city itself is by far the nicest in India, and is the least stressful to visit. Running out of internet time, so will limit these comments to just saying that it has been the most enjoyable part of India (though that may not be saying a lot).
 
So, we head to Vietnam where, for the first few days we should be on a cruise around Halong Bay, which we'll update you on as soon as possible.
 
Mark
 
(Also, leave nice comments saying how funny Victoria's titles will be for her first Vietnamese post)
2月6日

Vicki's Indian Reflections

Hello all
 
Sorry about lack of updates, I get this urge to go on forums rather than go on blogging and if i wrote eveything I wanted to, all the hippies would be on my back as would the Indian tourist board, but I will write now with some reflection on the past 6 weeks (yes I have been in India a bloody long time - in fact too long).
 
Firstly, we went to Delhi, it sucked, it smelt of tuna and I stepped in something which should really be living in the sewage system, it was bloody terrible city - worse than Lima - NEVER GO THERE - if do you are off your rocker.
 
We then went on a quick tour around the Rajasthan, the place where most people tend to go, I saw a tiger, we got 'forted out' I don't think I will ever be able to see another fort again and I habour a deep resentment towards Lonely Planet because we went to Amber Fort which must be the crappest fort in India - Dear LP - I would like my money back and this place just reinforced to me that I will never be able to eat tuna again (unless Boots only have tuna and sweetcorn sandwiches left)
 
As we are about to leave I can finally talk about the driving tour - you see Mark asked me not to - you might see why - our driver he did the following fun things
  1. Undertook lorries
  2. Smoked at the wheel (if only that were a bloodhound gang song)
  3. Peed on thr car (Mark claims)
  4. Bitched about us to our hosts (idiot)
  5. My fav overtaking on a blind bend on a mountain

Fun.. fun...fun! Ram (his name) is not the man - he didn't get tipped - yes honey you tried at the last minute and I had no alternative but to write something sarcastic in his guestbook (ie will never forget you - underlying meaning being you are a ******* prick)

 

Goa - lots of spiders and Brits and some very hot vindaloos consumed - in fact thats made me think - brits - kingfishers - curries - was that not the subject of the Fat Les song Vindaloo - yes they were obviously talking about Goa - and for the record on photobucket i got that crap henna on the beach in Goa (ps I don't have a tan yet)

Pune - lonely planet - ha ha thats funny - the places is crap and the sleeper bus we took - well I got no sleep on it cause well it was driven by ram the man's insane bus driving cousin (not actually but i imagine they took lessons with the same guy) oh and it sucked and Mark says i expect too much for 5 quid - the answer is yes i do.

Mumbai - nice city - hell hole hotel - pushed me over the edge it has I will never come back to India those thousands of flying things which lost their wings and went into my stuff and then died leaving their wings have really upset me and made me very angry too - oh and we had nice too - never stay their - and i will of course post the hotel name in big capital letters on the LP forum (even though I hateLP)

India sucks - simple

See you all in Vietnam

Love

Vicki

 

2月3日

Photos Part III

Well, after a monumental effort by Victoria and I, and many Rupees being spent (at least 10 Mountain Dews - for information on how to donate to our fund, send an email), we have managed to bring our photos up to date, and Victoria has even started giving them hilarious (and potentially libelous) titles. Go to our photobucket...
 
 
...and donate generously.
 
Mark
 
Also - I would provide an update now but the internet cafe is filled with kids playing Counterstrike and I am starting to lose my hearing from the screaming.
 
 
1月27日

From the Costa del Goa

First, I should point out Victoria must get credit for the title, with Goa (or at least Benaulim, where we have been staying) more like the South of Spain than India. This has meant that, even with the numerous Brit and German tourists, it has been a welcome and relaxing break from the rest of India before we head into Pune (careful with your comments) and then Mumbai (though everyone here still calls it Bombay).
 
So, as you would expect, the beaches are nicer than Southend here, even with the large number of sellers populating them (though even they are outnumbered by the number of crabs and starfish that wash up each morning).
 
Otherwise, there is not much to report, other than us both spending a fortune in Rupees (UK equivalent - a CD each) on souveniers at a "flea market", even though it was obviously a place for tourists to be driven to (by comparison, the market in Jodhpur actually sold proper junk, like broken telephones). This made the day quite entertaining because of the ridiculous charges the sellers would attempt to make you pay, even when they promised that their goods, or "rubbish", was "as cheap as chips" (obviously David Dickinson-mania has spread far). So, when I asked the price of a rather fetching travelling hat (photo to appear on photobucket soon) I was told 450 Rs, though after negotiation I only paid 60 (by the way, Victoria tells me that when we were leaving another man was prepared to pay the quoted price - in India you fail to negotiate at your peril).
 
Should add that our room is not great, and the price does not include hot water for the shower (though because of our location this is not a massive problem, though for Victoria the quite large spiders are).
 
Oh, and a word of warning to all - though a Cotton-Polyester blend shirt is fantastic for washing and drying, I found to my cost that they do not offer great sun protection, leading to me getting mildly burnt even when I stayed out of the sun between 12-4.
 
So, will be soon be heading back into Proper India, where I hope to be able to make my next post (which will hopefully be a little more substantial than this).
 
Mark
 
(Also, Victoria and I would appreciate more comments from those visiting the site, and it would be even better if they were complimentary).
1月19日

Mar's Round-Up

And on to another lake

Ok, so after the hippy-fest that was Pushkar, we went on to Udaipur, where we would stay for an unusually long 3 nights. Vicki has already mentioned how nice our hotel suite was (really), which meaning that in contrast to the previous day, our hard-fought battle with our driver to stay in it rather than go to a place of his choosing seemed worthwhile. However, as the hotel itself was a bit out of the way, we decided to start making use of our his services as much as possible by getting him to drive us into town each day.

Things did not start well when he dropped us off at a place that we didn't think we could return to for the collection. My situation worsened within 2 minutes of leaving the car as that day I had decided for the first time to try the travellers' footwear of choice - the sandal - to reduce the number of socks requiring washing. Naturally, within 20 steps of leaving the car I had managed to get what I assume to be cow **** all over them, and even managing to splash some at calf-level.

After my rage subsided, the day actualy proved quite enjoyable, with a visit to the palace museum which was made longer by Victoria's insistence to study the trust document for the charity running the place (which I naturally photographed - expect to see it within 8 months).

Later we went on a boat ride where we saw the quite disgusting state of the lake which is one of Udaipur's biggest attractions. This also included a trip to one of the 2 large islands on the lake (the other one is an exclusive hotel), though this proved more of a chance to pose for photos rather than explore with interest because the structure itself was in a pretty poor state. Returning at sunset gave some nice scenery, and probably gives a midleading impression of our destination.

The final part of our day was spent studying "minature paintings" after being approached by a student after disembarking from the boat. Naturally, I assumed that he meant very small paintings (which we would later see at the worst museum I have ever been to in Jaipur) but no, instead it was just loads of the Indian paintings which depict scenes with no sense of realism or perspective. Now, despite having studied art up to year 9 and during my general studies A level, I do not claim to be an expert, I have to say that they are a bit rubbish.

The following day was spent getting our driver to take us to some of the other highlights of Udaipur, the best of which was easily a place called Shilpgram, which showed the lifestyles of various Indian villagers. Ultimately, the people embracing their culture in order to make cash gave the place a bit of a fake feel to it, but the guide who accompanied us provided interesting information and the place itself was one of the better places we have visited. Also included was a camel ride, which felt least secure during what was effectively take-off and landing, and an attempt (and totally fail) by me to play an instrument consisting of 2 pieces of wood which you bang together.

Otherwise, the rest of our visits were unremarkable, with our day cut short because of Victoria getting sun cream in her eyes.

On to Jodhpur

Our penultimate drive culminated in familiar fashion when there was a disagreement over where we would stay, though our insistance again proved worthwhile because of the friendliness of our hosts (which even compensated for the hardest bed I have ever tried to sleep in). This time it was a bit of a shame as the mood was improving with our driver after he suggested we visit Ranakpur to visit a temple where Victoria and I were blessed, and then both lied to a priest about not having money with us (after I had give him all the change I had in my wallet) despite both of us wearing our money belts.

 

I will also point out (as Victoria probably will anyway) that I got her to arrange a room upgrade (though it was at the quoted price on the internet) becuase of the number of mosquitos in our room, but in my defence I didn't much fancy getting covered in bites (because I seem to attract all the mosquitos around, who leave Victoria alone)

Of the sites in Jodhpur, highlights include the palace that was brilliantly built as part of a poverty-relief initiative and which also used the term "tragedy" concerning the loss of marble at sea during the second world war, and also "fortunately" concerning a Polish man who had fled after the German invasion.

We also went to another fort, though included this time was an MP3 audio tour with different "tracks" to play when you reached certain points. This place also saw a resurgence in the interest towards us, which even led to someone attempting a paparazzi style unaware shot. Victoria also got her palm read, which indicated that she should be able to keep on forumating for a good 60 years yet, though I may not have to put up with it for that long (once she hits 23 at least).

We also visited an Indian department store, where I took full advantage of the discounted price at which they sold massive bags of Lays crisps. We were then taken to the market, though our driver again decided to drop us some distance from it without directions, leading to me having to use a compass to find the right way. We set off on search of the fabled Lassi-seller (which is a yoghurt drink) which caused us no ill-effects and I began preparing for our 27 hour train trip to Goa from Jaipur (which is tomorrow) by buying loads of books, which have since kept me behind on updating my journal even when we don't have HBO.

Finally, in Victoria's eyes, the day was spoilt when, after getting ice cream, an obviously mentally unstable old man approached us whilst crossing a road, though I only mention this to assure everyone that we were not in any kind of danger (in fact the ice cream was more hazardous, though the only consequence it had was to make me a little bored with the sweet cinnamon-like flavour that every dessert here is given).

An emotional farewell...

Our driving trip ended with a trip to Jaipur and another dispute over hotels. By now, we were considering what approach we should have to tipping the driver (as we had been pleased with him on about 3 days), particularly after Victoria was asked to write in his book of thanks (which she did in an excellently ambiguous way). Fortunately, any potential akwardness was avoided by our driver departing virtually the minute we got out the car, which even stopped us from being able to pose with him in front of the car.

In Jaipur, as I indicated above, there is perhaps the worst museum I have ever seen. In fact, I would go so far as to say it is the Battlefield Earth of museums - it was so bad that I actually really enjoyed it, particularly the picture of India on a rice grain (though it was advertised as a map, which I would say requires at least some kind of geographical markings) and our guide who spoke not a single word of English (but was included in the price).

Whilst in Jaipur we have also been to an outdoor observatory which included absolutely massive sun dials and other instruments, and another temple (though it only cost about 7p to get into). We also went to Amber, where there was another fort (this time without audio guide) which was run down and in various places smelt of urine. We have now learnt our lesson and taken further forts off of our itinery.

We are now spending our final night in Jaipur in the most expensive (and nicest) hotel we have stayed in, which even includes a swimming pool (which I today went in even though it was freezing and quite disgusting). Also, we have rather shamefully been visiting McDonalds so frequently (mostly for Diet Coke for Victoria) that the cashiers have started recognizing us.

As I have now glanced at Victoria's most recent comment (or rant), I should add that I only partially agree with her (I will elaborate if I have time) over the smell (which is almost overpowering in certain areas) and my own fort fatigue. However, I should say that, as long as you know a little about cricket (which I would advise you read up on before coming here), most people are very friendly. However, you quickly get suspicious and sceptical that many people see you with a Rupees sign over your head, particularly those begging and offering you rickshaws. The difficulty is not to let it get to you, which it has Victoria after we were followed down the street by some children.

Well, internet time is nearly up, so that will do for now. Next stop, Goa.

Mark

 

Last day in Jaipur

Today is officially the last day in Jaipur before we go to Goa (following the herd of course) and thank bloody god, because we are sick of it. People come to this part of India the Rajasthan to see temples and forts and the like, but after seeing about 4 of them we can't be bothered with anymore, which leads me onto a rant - Lonely Planet is full of it and its obvious being paid to say things are better than they are. Take Amber Fort - LP says its beautiful a wonder etc, i'll say after going there that its run down, covered in poo and smells of urine because people use it as a toilet, because here it seems people don't know what toilets are, they just do it on the streets, no wonder you can't drink the water, the thing i will remember most about India is the smell, its vile, i really don't care what comments i get about this because however much anyone tried to argue with me they know its true - and i have never seen anywhere so bad. Also the street children are really getting to me, the fact they have the nerve to pull at your arms means that i have exploded on several occassions, i have no duty to feed them or give them money and every guide book says you shouldn't, i'm fed up with being a meal ticket and pulled about, their parents are selfish because these kids probably don't make money most of the time so they should really take advantage of the free schooling here, in order to get out the poverty trap but hey if you want your kid t o make like what 8 rupees a year thats your business, but the tourist police should do something about it because quite frankly i'm going to tell people not to bother coming here unless they come on a tour, because real people are of several types
- beggars
- conmen who will try and screw you over
- over friendly types who stare and try and touch you because they think i must be a loose western whore
 
sorry if this offends anyone but its the truth and free free to challenge me but the rajasthan is not the best india has to offer, lets hope other places, like Goa, Pune or Mumbai give me something to smile about.
 
Also LP - your guide books suck, and i should have realised that after you said kenilworth, uk was worth 2 days!!! oh and you encourage people to go and look around The City - we hate tourists there!
 
Vicki
1月13日

Photos 2

Because MSN Spaces requires you to download some software before uploading photos, we have also started a photobucket which may be reached at
 
 
Hopefully all the pictues will eventually be transferred here, though in the mean time this will be the site where they are uploaded.
 
Mark

Mark's Summary Part 1

So, having been away for 2 weeks, and already having fallen woefully behind in maintaining the blog, we have decided that the best approach will be to provide a summary of what we have done so far. Unfortunately, there may be considerable overlap with Victoria’s account as I don’t have the time, or inclination, to check what she has written before doing this, with my patience already well tested by the obstructions in posting photos.

 

Delhi

 

As most of you will have noticed from our posts, Delhi was not our favourite place and we were pleased to leave and start our driving tour. The in-your-face approach of those wanting to separate me from my Rupees was fiercer than anywhere we have been since (though I may instead be starting to get more used to it). Indeed, the more unpleasant things about staying in India seem to have an increased concentration in Delhi, which also includes the traffic and waste, including that from people on the pavement.

 

On our final day in Delhi, we visited the red fort, which was not particularly impressive with virtually every structure within it having an accompanying sign saying how the structure was ransacked by several different groups, removing most of its most attractive parts, giving the impression that the building would have been far nicer had we visited a couple of hundred years ago.

 

We also became more accustomed to being transported in rickshaws or tuk-tuks, which we were assured were far safer than our initial impressions suggested (honestly). Through this we met some interesting characters, whom often asked quite inappropriate, and embarrassing questions. On our final day, we even had the driver’s nephew accompany us, who spoke of his dream to come to the UK to work in IT. On his advice, Victoria bought the lovely Indian dress you will see in some of the photos to give the impression that we have been to India before, and thereby not be overcharged as much.

 

I should also mention that we were also provided with our first encounters with the different animals in India, which include a variety of monkeys, chipmunks and even an elephant being taken on a main road (which unfortunately I didn’t have time to take a photo of.

 

The tour begins…

 

Any feelings we may have had about overpaying for our driving tour (only about 20 pounds at most) were compounded on the first day when our driver (a phrase I never thought I would grow so familiar with using) was nearly an hour late, and turned up in a car with white seat covers which in some areas had turned brown. It also transpired that he speaks only broken English which, although better than my Hindi, was not what we had expected.

 

We reached Agra in the early evening, and went to eat at a roof-top café overlooking the Taj Mahal. This we had to reach by foot as there is a car exclusion zone enforced to protect the marble, with our walk back leading to us being asked to leave (though I think Victoria uses the phrase “kicked out”) an internet café after we refused to pay for our time when we were unable to print (which we had told them before was the sole reason for us using the internet)

 

In the morning we went to visit the Taj, which is massively expensive for India (costing around 10 pounds). Now, obviously it is a magnificent building, but it seems that the only reason to actually visit it (rather than look from a distance) is so you can pose in front of it and take pictures from a variety of angles, which we happily did, even though it was far colder than I thought India would be. Also, you need to be inside the complex to get “the shot” of the Taj Mahal, with the reflection coming off the fountain, which we had to queue for a considerable time to get (I think Victoria covers the story of the red-t-shirted girl who clearly illustrates the coldness of the morning).

 

After leaving the site, and spending some time in the surrounding area, we were greeted by our driver who seemed to suggest that we had spent too long visiting the area (though I can’t be sure – see above) before our drive to Ranthambore.

 

The Tiger (?) Park

 

Though, in contrast to our previous nights, the hotel was not particularly pleasant, the visit to Ranthambore was a highlight thus far purely for the entertainment provided on the tour of the safari park. The drive itself was a little like a very long cheap fairground roller-coaster, though with the further benefit of excellent scenery and various animals.  However, what made it all the more memorable was the combination of a smoking, spitting German (or Finnish – I can’t be sure) man sitting in front of an unsubtle American, who made his dissatisfaction with the spitting very obvious to the man in front, culminating in a threat to spit on the back of the guys head.

 

This more than made up for the fact that the closest I got to seeing a tiger was a footprint in the dust, although Victoria believes that she saw one (or at least part of one) in a bush which the truck stopped alongside. Unfortunately, we did not act quick enough to confirm this sighting, so whether she really saw the tiger that everyone else missed will remain a mystery

 

The Holy Lake

 

After a couple of nights we set off for Pushkar. However, our departure was considerably delayed because after dropping us off in Ranthambore, our driver then disappeared until an hour after we had wanted to leave. After spending much of our final evening in Ranthambore searching for him, we found him outside our hotel in his car (so he can pocket the accommodation expenses he is paid), and made the mistake of assuming he would be there the following morning. Our relationship soured further when, upon reaching Pushkar, he appeared to launch into a sulk when we refused to look at a hotel he took us to and insisted upon staying in the hotel we has booked.

 

The room which we so insisted upon staying in proved to be of a habitable standard, although this extended to an assortment of creatures (though none of which took an interest in us). It ultimately proved quite fortunate that, because of a mix-up in dates, we only spent one night in Pushkar rather than the planned two, letting us move on to nicer, though slightly more expensive, accommodation.

 

Pushkar itself was nice to walk around, though the lake itself was not great (though I hope such a comment is not too offensive to those more religion-driven), and I had my first encounter with genuine hippies, who seemed friendly enough though I did not actually speak to any.

 

Rest assured though Mum, I have no intentions of joining them.

 

Well, with internet time running out, I have cleared some of the backlog, though it will be a few more days until I am up to date, though I should also be in a position to provide more photos.

 

Mark

 

 

 

Vicki's piece

Time for another update – this time from “the Rajasthan” – me and mark are currently in Jodhpur, which is where those delightful riding trousers come from. Now time for a quick update of all the places we have been seen Ag-ripoff-a.

 

Ranthambore  – wonder tiger reserve which took 8 hours to get to, had no hot water, no HBO and you had to have the buffet dinner on rather dirty table clothes. On the plus side we did get to go on in a canter around the park which is a big jeep thing. Now I maintain I saw some kind of orange and black big cat and Mark can bitch all he likes about me being the only person to see it, but I just got new glasses so it must be true – or else I want the 60 quid back on the lenses. Of much fun was oh course the “banter” between an American guy and some finnish/german guy the later kept spitting Chinese style and it was hitting the “I will boast about being well traveled American” to the point he said “if you do that again I will spit on your head” this has been altered because of the nan rule. On leaving the American told the Germanic guy that smoking would cause him cancer, to which the reply was “I already have cancer” ahhhhhh I bet you feel bad about that Mr American guy.

 

Pushkar – errrr hotel from hell, only like a quid each but didn’t have a shower because we worried about being poisoned via carbon monoxide from dodgy looking boiler. Pushkar is nice for one day only cause there ain’t much there, it also have a high concentration of hippies. Question of the day is: Why do hippies smoke? Surely they should get stressed about all those poor beagles being forced to smoke that “Turkish American blend”?

 

Udaipur – this place has been in a Bond movie or so they say, but after seeing Die Another Day, I don’t want to watch Bond movies ever again so I don’t know about that one. We like Udaipur, we like Mewar Inn and we now like funny American sit-com Kevin Hill because of this, we also now like Aloo Gohbi (ask for this when you go down the curry house cause its lush) and I like Lassis (though no bhandi lassi yet - L - I think that’s the correct spelling). What we don’t like is the boat tour, the boat tour is pants and it’s a waste of money you would spend on a tall skinny latte in Starbucks (yes got another one in there James!), you can’t see the whole of island two either (btw I am talking about the pleasure island not the hotel one, I’m sure the hotel one is nice) because half of it looks pants, thus kept behind closes doors. Also, here I learnt that sun cream in the eyes is not good, in fact we had to go back to the hotel on day 2 early cause it was blinding me.

 

NB – spelling and grammar – pah, I know its good when I want it to be but you see I am under great time constraints, I mean I have to forumate!

 

Vicki

x

1月9日

Photos

As you can see, I have been able to upload some of the photos that I have taken thus far, which are in a disorganised state. Unfortunately, the limited speed of the internet available meant it was not possible to upload all the pictures, and some have also not been uploaded completely. However, once we reach Jaipur, where we will be staying for several days, I will be able to sped the necessary time to upload them properly and also inform you all of everything Victoria and myself have done, including our deteriorating relationship with our driver.

 

Mark

1月5日

Agra

Hello all,

Me and Mark are currently in Agra, which is nicer than Dehli (though that is not particually hard). Its 9.30am and it very very cold so I currently can't feel my fingers so sorry in advance for any typos etc but i always make them so not much really changes there. We are currently on a driving tour which a driver who doesn't seem to speak much english and lives in his car, he also much to my interest smokes unfiltered ciggies - which begs the question - why can he still breathe, on the car trip I had the joy of being covered in ash as he tried to flick the finished ends out the window but failed, lucky i had my dust mask on, though it does make me look like a japanese tourist (i even have the big camera).

Anyway after having a crap day at the red fort in delhi we decided to give all sandstone related attractions a miss so all we need to see in agra was the taj mahal which we did at 7am! least we got "the picture" though it took a while because some girl wanted a picture of the taj mahal and her nipples several times over. We think the pictures will be nice (will post later) but the price to get in takes the mick - 750 rupees in fact- i could buy like a million pepsis with that. Nice places, little bit ott - this statement probably makes me a heathen.

Another interesting agra adventure was me and mark being kicked out of an internet cafe- yes removed,  kicked out, asked to leave etc etc, but i think its fine not to want to pay when the guy knows nothing about computers and you've asked him to print when he doesn't realise the computer he has given you isn't connected to a printer!!!!!!!! Oh and they only seem to have got to the 56k stage here - everything is sooooo slow : (

Love

Vicki

x

(these are my views, mark's may not be the same)

 

ps - they have monkeys in the street!

1月3日

Mark on Delhi

Well, as promised, I will provide a considerably longer post detailing our trip so far.
 
Tomorrow, we depart on our 11-day tour of Rajastan beginning in Agra to see the Taj Mahal, and going on to see further places that we will provide details about later.
 
To be honest, it is something of a relief to be leaving Delhi, having exhausted virtually all the tourist sites. Though these were interesting, particularly Qutb Minar and the Gandhi museum, the city otherwise has little to commend it, with it dirty, increadibly noisy and busy like any other city, but also with the most insane traffic I have ever seen.
 
That said, there have been numerous occassions where I have felt more attached to this place, particularly on New Year's Eve where there was a very friendly atmosphere and, perhaps most importantly, traffic was not allowed into the centre of the city. However, overall I look forward to moving on to the next destination, though without sharing Victoria's hostility towards the place.
 
As this is my first trip outside the developed world, it is the first time I have ever been in the position of being of a somewhat unusual, and consequently interesting, ethnic origin, and I must say that it gives an interesting insight, albeit only temporary, into being viewed primarily in terms of ethnicity. I have noticed no hostility, with the most negative aspect being the inflated prices Victoria and I are quoted when viewed as a source of easy money.
 
Otherwise, the best way I can describe the reactions we receive is of being a minor celebrity because of famous parents - some characteristics beyond my control attracts a not inconsiderable amount of interest, which includes people asking us to pose with them for photos (though we are now somewhat wary of this, as occassionally we are suspicious that it may have been used as a scheme to attempt to relieve us of the contents of our pockets) and numerous conversations with people eager to practice their English which, on average, is very good.
 
Similarly, our Western appearance also makes us a prime target for beggars, including young children and women with their babies, who either come up to us when we are travelling by foot or even risking the traffic whenever the vehicle we are in comes to a stop. Naturally, any inconvenience it causes me is incomparable to the problems these people face, and makes me greatly appreciate the not inconsiderably luck I have had in having lived such a sheltered life by comparison.
 
Well, having had my Bono/Geldoff moment for now, I will finish by saying that for the next 11 days or so, I am unsure how much internet access we will have, so any additions from us may not be available until some time afterwards.
 
Finally, I should add that photos will be uploaded as soon as somewhere with USB connectivity can be located.
 
Mark
12月30日

Arrived in Delhi

Well, I am pleased to say that we have arrived safely in Delhi and have spent the day sleeping off our jet-lag in what is actually quite a nice hotel room which, importantly, includes a "Western style", or simply, sit-down toilet..
 
Otherwise, there is not much else to report. My highlight so far has been seeing several monkeys on the rather prolonged hotel transfer, which included the driver and guide not being able to find the hotel and having our own mini-tour of the area of Delhi in which we are staying.
 
Speaking of which, our first impressions are of a very busy and crowded city, though I'll reserve any further judgement until I have explored further.
 
Ok, well I am going to leave it for now with the promise of a much more substantial entry later which I can prepare in advance.
 
Regards,
 
Mark
 
 
 
12月29日

A Welcome Message From Vicki

A Welcome Message

 

Mark introduced himself so I’m kinda thinking I should, which means this little gem is going public. I’m Vicki, I’m 22 but near enough 23, originally from Warwickshire (Kenilworth in fact) but moved to Essex 18 months ago, and my sole purpose for travelling is to cure my hideous internet forum addictions – its like cold turkey for the fingertips.

 

This is going to be my fourth backpacking trip, slightly longer than the rest, which have always been only a month or so, but has the potential to be the most interesting as this time I get to do more border crossings but has a greater illness potential (after suffering some not-so-nice food poisoning in Peru, I have a rough idea of what to expect!). Only time will tell what will be the highlights and lowlights but I’m pretty damn sure Neighbours Night in Melbourne is not going to be a disappointment, nor will the glimpse of any tigers go amiss (I never saw any tigers in China because they are all in jars along with baby pickled fawns and some best knock off DVDs you will find in the world).

 

I must stress to everyone who knows me well, the Nan Rule will somewhat scupper my normal freedom of expression, I’ll have to watch my language here and save the cuss words for the paper journal, unless its so bad I have to! No dropping it in here and there : (

 

I’m not entirely sure why Mark has chosen a picture of me where I haven’t combed my hair.  I think it will be a case of taking turns to write this wonderful blog (you’re blogging Fletcher - you’re a total loser – you’ll end up on a forum next) so do me a favour and only add comments on my entries, unless you want to mention to the world that Mark is very wordy, oh and it will make me look more popular (I’m looking at you James, Rich and Lizzy).

 

Take care and I look forward to writing about how stressful New Dehli is and maybe adding some interesting facts about it (ahhhh they could be my facts for the day!)

 

Vicki  x

 

Ps – I have a laxer attitude towards spelling and punctuation.
12月28日

Introduction

 

As this is the very first entry in our new blog, I’ve decided that I’ll write something by way of an introduction.

 

So, my name is Mark and, as you have probably already noticed, my years of studying have left me with an incredibly formal writing style that is not well suited to this format. However, I am new not only to blogging (unlike Victoria) but also to keeping any type of diary or journal, and hope, as time progresses, I will become more relaxed.

 

But, until then, I will adopt my essay-writing style and consequently will be using excessively long words and struggle to refer to myself in the first person.

 

Anyway, Victoria and I decided we would set up this joint space (which we sincerely hope Microsoft will not get upset about) to reduce the effort required whilst we are actually away, and to thereby ensure this site is kept as updated as possible.

 

Speaking of which, this site is intended to act primarily as a travel journal that our family and friends will be able to check (or, where they are totally computer illiterate, get someone to check on their behalf) at their leisure and keep up to date with our latest exploits. However, if you do not actually know either of us, you are more than welcome to find any useful information on the places we have visited, or instead simply kill some time at home or at work.

 

This method was chosen as I have myself received many group emails sent by people abroad that, I am ashamed to say, did not read, and thought provided a more interesting means of keeping in contact, especially as I should be able to upload pictures whilst we are away.

 

Because of the intended clientele of this site, which will include my Mum and Nan (though, I am afraid to say, it is unlikely they will be visiting the site themselves – see above for computer illiteracy) and my little sister, we will be trying to keep this site as clean as possible, and would appreciate it if all visitors could follow what will be termed hereafter as the “Nan Rule” – that no-one will post anything that they would not say in front of their own Nan.

 

And for those of you that freely swear in front of their Nan, please will you nonetheless spare a thought for my Nan’s feelings. And Victoria’s of course.

 

Well, now I have written this stupidly long and wordy introduction, which most people probably gave up reading half-way down, I would like to thank you for getting this far, and hope that we are able to update the site with enough pictures and more interesting entries than this to keep you all entertained for the 10 minutes you will be spending here every so often, hopefully over the next 8 months.

 

Regards,

 

Mark.